There’s been a bit of heartache recently over the espresso issue, both over on coffeed and at Intelly. While the debate rages on as to the nature of North American versus Italian styles and independent (third wave) roasters’ sacred cows versus larger names, there have been some interesting developments taking place at Intelligentsia in attempt to recover from what was perceived as (in some circles) a snub on Ken David’s Coffee Review. Whether or not the Black Cat is a sacred cow, and whether it deserves to be regarded as such aren’t arguments I’m particularly interested in engaging in, nor do I feel like I’d have much more perspective (read opinion) than what has already been given.

What I have been observing, however, over the past few weeks of espresso tastings and blendings, is an interesting phenomenon. Particular taste for espresso, even among those who drink or sample it on a regular basis, greatly varies from person to person, significantly more so than it does on the cupping table among evaluators of comparable experience.

More interesting is the affect travel has on coffee, an effect especially evident in the life and flavor of espresso. The Silver Lake store has been evaluating espresso roasted here in Chicago along with us, usually a day after air travel. While there are certainly stylistic differences between the Mid-West and the West coast, more interesting has been the appearance of certain traits such as acidity and roastiness to translate differently. There is also likely an explanation lying to some extent in the water being used to pull the shots, despite Cirqua water purifying systems being calibrated to identical settings in both the Los Angeles and Chicago locations.

But water certainly can’t account for everything. I’ve never had Illy espresso outside of the States, but I’m told it tastes radically different in Italy. There are some who swear the best espresso they’ve ever had is Northern Italian style in Northern Italy, and no North American espresso can attain a equally impressive shot. However, I would probably be likely to say the same thing given the right circumstances.

Regardless, a fascination with single origin coffee has translated into the realm of espresso, and it has been a challenge (albeit a rewarding one) to work on creating a balanced single-origin espresso blend that can please a large realm of diverse palates. I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s the way of the future for many ‘third wave’ roasters, retailers, enthusiasts & purists.